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The day started with a lie-in as the weather was poor once again. However, when our guide went out to do the weather check at 0430 hours the local dog ensured that no one remained asleep. Fifteen minutes of barking is enough to stir even the most tired soul. Breakfast was cornflakes, chapattis and omelette with spring onions.
After the horses were loaded with kit we set off at approx 0800 hours on the path down to Sirikhola. The descent was steep in places and took us from an elevation of 3636m down to 1886m. At the start we walked through pine forest with some rhododendron but this soon gave way to thick bamboo and Himalayan Hemlock. The path was muddy and the rain did its best to soak us and make the route difficult for the horses. We split into 2 groups, as one of the team was still weak and tired after illness. He was accompanied by the leader and his group of amateur botanists. The group stopped frequently to photograph many varieties of orchid, rhododendron, primulas to name but a few. Along the route they passed other local travellers and some local children walking many miles home from school. An old lady and 2 young children were amazed to see their pictures on the screen of a digital camera and they smiled and laughed as they went on their way with a handful of chocolate éclairs.
The group was ready for a rest by the time they reached Gurudum and we stopped at a teahouse for a well-earned drink. We were discussing the 2-hour journey ahead when one of the cook team arrived with a kettle full of juice and some stainless steel cups. He had carried a heavy load of kitchen equipment down to the night stop location and then returned up the steep hills to bring juice to the trekkers. He covered the uphill stretch in 45 mins and his stoic and helpful nature humbled us. He was invited to sit with the group and have a drink before leaving to get back to camp.
The group progressed slowly and arrived at the lodge at about 1700 hours. The main group, who had already been for a swim in the river and unpacked their kit in the dormitory, greeted them. The main group had stopped for a snack at Gurudum and a photo shoot at the bridge over the main river in the valley. As they approached their final destination they came across a memorial to a local soldier who had lost his life in Kashmir. The upturned rifle and helmet on top was a poignant reminder of conflict and its human tragedy.
The team enjoyed a sumptuous evening meal together and relaxed around the tables, reading, writing or playing Jenga with the guides. After dinner some of the team decided to have a beer and purchased some Kingfisher. Much to the amusement of the rest of the team the beer turned out to be non-alcoholic. The long downhill day had finally drawn to a close.
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